INGREDIENT CORNER

Clams are bi-valve mollusks. They do not live attached to a substrate, such as oysters and mussels. Most burrow into the soft substrate to varying depths, while some groups live free on the sea floor.

A clam's shell consists of two (usually equal) valves, which are connected by a hinge joint and a ligament that can be internal or external. The ligament provides tension to bring the valves apart, while one or two adductor muscles can contract to close the valves.

In Italy, clams are often an ingredient of mixed seafood dishes or are eaten together with pasta. The more commonly used varieties of clams in Italian cooking are the vongola, the cozza (mussel), daterro di mare (date clam) and the tellina.


If you are steaming a clam, it will open itself. However, if you need the clam for a raw application, follow these simple steps to open the shell:

1. Handle the clam gently - too much pressure and it may close its shells more tightly in response to the perceived threat.
2. Hold the clam against the base of your thumb, with one side pressed into the meat of your thumb and the hinge angled upwards (so the front faces down & toward your pinkie).
3. Place the blade of the clam knife against front of the clam, with the sharp side up against where the two shells meet.
4. Curl your fingers up and around the blade, pushing into the gap between the shells in a smooth motion until it glides between them and into the interior of the clam.
5. Once the blade is inside the clam, angle it up so that it is scraping against the interior of the top shell. Scrape along the top shell until you cut both adductor muscles.
6. You should now be able to open the clam. Gently slide the clam knife's blade under the meat and scrape against the bottom shell to separate the meat.
7. Check the clam meat and juice ("liquor") for shell fragments - remove any you find, then continue with your recipe.

There are several varieties of clam, but these are the most common culinary varieties available in the United States:

HARD CLAMS

These are the most common clams you will see in the supermarket and restaurants. The big difference is the size:

Little Neck - small and tender they are usually steamed open or eaten raw on the half shell.

Middlenecks or Top Neck - These measure about two inches across. A bit bigger than littlenecks, they are still tender and tasty raw on the half-shell or steamed, but also big enough to take to grilling nicely (top the grilled ones with a bit of herb butter).

Cherrystone - They are bigger yet, perfect for pasta sauces or grilling, eaten raw or most often used for baked clam appetizers such as clams casino

Chowder - These are huge hard-shell clams perfect for soups, stews, and, of course, chowders - any dish in which they have some long, slow cooking time to make sure they're tender.

RAZOR CLAMS

Razor clams are a local favorite in Oregon and Washington. They have long, thin shells and plant themselves in the sand vertically. Razors need proper cleaning to make sure they aren't sandy or gritty when cooked up. The most popular way to cook them is to coat them in bread crumbs and give them a quick fry. They can also be sauteed or broiled with great success.

GEODUCK

These clams are very large and strange looking. To give you an idea of how big, the Chinese name for them translates as "elephant trunk clam." They burrow deep into the sand in tidal flats along the Northwest coast of the U.S. and Canada. They are prized for their flavor and texture. They are delicious raw in sushi, used in ceviche, cut up and fried, or simmered in broth or chowder.

RECIPES

Spaghetti alla Vongole YIELD: 4 servings   ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 cloves garlic, minced 2 bay leaves Pinch crushed red pepper flakes Small bunch fresh thyme, secured with twine 1 pound littleneck clams 1½ cups dry white wine 1 pound dried spaghetti Kosher salt Zest and juice of 1 lemon 4 ounces clam juice 2 T unsalted butter, cut into 2 pats ¼ cup fresh oregano, finely chopped ¼ cup fresh parsley, finely chopped 2 T fresh chives, finely chopped ½ cup grated Parmesan, plus more for garnish 1. Add olive oil to a high-sided pan with a lid. Add the minced garlic, bay leaves, red pepper flakes and thyme bundle. Heat pan over medium heat and cook, being careful not to burn the garlic, until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. 2. Add the clams and wine and turn the heat to high. Cover and steam until the clams have fully opened, 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer the clams to a glass bowl and return the liquid, thyme bundle and bay leaves back to the pan. Remove most of the clams from their shells and set aside. Reserve the remaining clams in their shells for garnish. 3. Cook the pasta in salted boiling water, until al dente. Drain and set aside. 4. Increase the heat to medium under the sauce and add the lemon zest and juice and clam juice. Taste for seasoning and simmer. Add the drained pasta, shelled clams and 2 pats of butter. Toss to combine. Remove the bay leaves and thyme bundle. Sprinkle with the herbs, a handful of grated Parmesan and a drizzle of oil. Toss to fully coat the pasta. 5. Divide the pasta into 2 bowls and drizzle with the remaining pan sauce. Garnish with the reserved clams, a sprinkle of Parmesan and a slice of garlic bread.

Clam Chowder YIELD: 12 servings ROUX ¾ cup butter, melted 1 cup flour SOUP 51 oz can clams, drained and juice reserved 4 cups celery, diced ½" 1 large onion, diced ½" 3 large leeks, diced ½" ¾ tablespoon coarsely ground pepper 1 tablespoons kosher salt ¼ cup dried thyme 6 bay leaves 1 teaspoon tabasco sauce 1½ cups sherry 3 russet potatoes, diced ½" 1 quart half and half 1 quart heavy cream ROUX 1.Combine melted butter and flour in oven-proof container and bake at 325° F for 30 minutes. SOUP 1.Drain can of clams, reserving liquid. Set clams aside. 2.Add clam broth to soup pot with celery, onion, leeks, pepper, salt, thyme, bay leaves and Sherry. Cook for about 15 minutes, the add potatoes and simmer until potatoes are thoroughly cooked and the celery is soft. 3.Stir in roux until chowder becomes think. (Mixture will be slightly less thick than cookie dough.) 4.Stir in half and half and cream until well blended. 5.Add clams and serve immediately. OPTIONAL: Serve in a sourdough boule.

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